Start watering when your lawn starts to dry out after early spring rain subsides. Your lawn needs about 1–2 inches of water a week in the spring and 2–3 inches a week in the summer. You’ll know it’s time to turn on your sprinklers if it doesn’t rain or snow for about a week. Once you turn on your sprinklers for the season, you should measure the amount of water they provide by following these steps:

The layer of dead grass between the soil and the green grass of your lawn is called thatch. A little thatch (half an inch thick) can be good because it keeps moisture near the soil layer, but too much of it can suffocate the healthy, green grass layer above. If you have more than half an inch of thatch in your lawn, you may want to remove the excess by dethatching.

To dethatch your lawn, use a rake to gently remove the extra thatch. Wait to dethatch until the soil under your lawn has thawed out from winter weather—usually from mid-March to mid-April in Utah. If you dethatch too early, you may tear out healthy grass and expose the lawn to diseases.

Aerating your lawn can benefit the soil and root system. Aeration machines create holes in the turf, relieving compact soil and allowing nutrients to penetrate deeper.

You can aerate your lawn in spring or fall. If you choose to aerate in spring, it will help jump-start the lawn so it can start receiving the nutrients it needs.

Be sure to clean the aeration machine before aerating your lawn because dirty aerators can spread lawn diseases like necrotic ring spot. For the best results, aeration should be paired with overseeding.

Pre-emergent prevents weeds from growing by killing seeds in the soil. To work properly, pre-emergent needs to be applied before seeds have a chance to start growing—usually in mid to late spring (depending on the plant).

Applying pre-emergent in mid-April through May will help prevent pesky summer weeds from growing, including crabgrass. Avoid applying pre-emergent too early—the chemical is generally effective for about 3 months after application.

Keep in mind that you should not apply pre-emergent if you choose to overseed in spring because the pre-emergent will kill the grass seed.

Look for signs like brown patches that aren't caused by drought, small mounds of dirt near your foundation, or an unusual number of insects around your home's entry points. Many common Utah pests, like box elder bugs and elm seed beetles, become most active in late spring and early summer. A year-round pest protection plan stops them before they make their way indoors.

Start by watching for discolored leaves, unusual spots, or branches that are dying back. Utah landscapes are especially prone to iron chlorosis, which turns leaves yellow while the veins stay green. Deep root feeding and targeted nutrient treatments strengthen your trees and shrubs from below the surface, making them more resistant to disease and environmental stress.

Mites and borers are most active during Utah's warmer months, typically from late spring through summer. Treating early in the season, before populations establish themselves, is far more effective than reacting once damage is visible. A preventive spray schedule tailored to your specific plant varieties gives you the best chance of avoiding costly damage.

The most effective approach combines a quality pre-emergent barrier with targeted spot treatments throughout the growing season. Mulching your beds also helps suppress weed growth by blocking sunlight from reaching the soil. Be careful with generic weed killers near flowerbeds, as many products can damage the ornamental shrubs and plants you're trying to protect.